A mini retreat…

Spent the last weekend (add two more days to that) at Bhimtal – being from Uttaranchal, it shouldn't come as a huge surprise that our family’s favorite vacation spot is always somewhere in the himalayan hills. (You could also read this post I did a while back). 

Bhimtal was beautiful. The verdant greens, the pine forests on hills surrounding the so many “taals” (lakes), the placid waters, the serene ambiance – sheer bliss and complete therapy for the dust laden, hurried city souls. 

I am in awe of the leisurely paced life in the hill towns of Uttaranchal. Yes, there are infrastructural issues and a lot of everyday hardships that we “tourists” tend to brush under the carpet so as to not taint our idyllic version of the landscape, but the charm of kumaon is undeniable. The clean air, the fresh dew, the rejuvenating sights and sounds – all make you forget the filth and grime that lurks a couple of hours away.

This time the highlight was our boating experience at “saat taal”. Since October is considered an off-peak season, there was hardly any sign of human life around – and that itself was very soothing for the eyes and heartening for the spirits. We hired a pedal boat and pedaled the entire length and breadth of the lake, which was spread out in all its glory only for us. We soaked in the calm of the silently rippling waters and the gentle sway of the wind, wishing that these moments would last forever…

SOS – Our hill stations need a savior!

A kumaoni by birth, I have been very proud of my “native” land – the hills of Uttarakhand (formerly, Uttaranchal, and before that a part of the state of Uttar Pradesh). Most of our vacations during my growing up years were spent visiting breathtaking valleys and mountainous ranges of Nainital, Bhimtal, Almora, Pithoragarh and Lohaghat – the lesser known but much more beautiful cousins of the more popular – Mussorie and Dehradun.

This time around I visited the hills after a gap of 5 years. The journey was as always arduous and my affinity to mountain sickness does not help matters. But forget that. Dad took a less-traveled route to Almora – our chosen destination - and it was undoubtedly one of the most scenic drives I have ever taken. The long winding roads wrapped around the mountains with royal pines spread out till as far as the eye can see, and the mist rising softly as if from below the mountains – heaven is here.

But before I could completely lose myself in the picturesque view that enveloped us, the driver screeched rudely at our first halt.

Rickety shops lined along the road serving food that has never known the word hygiene. Sanitation is at its worst. No, you don’t want a description of the restrooms.

We tried to drown the ugly reality in the beauty of nature and reached Almora - a town that has not changed with the passage of time. I do not know if I mean this as an appreciation. Almora still does not have a drainage and sewage system. The vehicles have increased but the roads have deteriorated.

Move to Nainital – all that is good about the place is what the colonial rule bequeathed on us. We have barely been able to maintain the infrastructure developed by the British more than 200 years ago. The number of people visiting these places has multiplied manifold, and the “mall” road has become a mess of smoke and noise.

What makes me so bitter at the state of affairs is that nothing is being done, nobody is bothered. What should not change – the weather, the majesty of nature, the peace and solitude of the place – is changing thanks to global warming, unchecked pollution and total disregard for our natural heritages; And what should change – the infrastructure, roads, education of the local population, sanitation – is not changing.

It is a frustrating experience seeing these places that offer hope for retreat and sanity in a world that’s maddeningly complicated, simply fade away their charm and glory.

However, I must mention that Bhimtal is a few notches better than the other two places. There is a serenity in the place that is intoxicating. So maybe next summer, you could plan a trip to Bhimtal to beat the heat. Leaving you with a picture of the calm and placid waters.